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RobotBuild/index.html

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Attaching the Molded Plastic wheels
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Attaching the Moulded Plastic wheels
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Attaching the Molded Plastic wheels
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Attaching the Moulded Plastic wheels
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<li>Attach the assembled lolly stick with <abbr title="Infra Red">IR</abbr> sensor and servo horn to the servo shaft.</li>
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</ol>
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<h3 id="attaching-the-fit0450-and-skinny-wheel">Attaching the FIT0450 and Skinny wheel</h3>
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<p>This is the most awkward component to attach to the chassis, because the orientation motor must be manipulated to slide into the final location and screw into place. The procedure for assembly is a follows:</p>
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<p>This is the most awkward component to attach to the chassis, because the orientation motor must be manipulated to slide into the final location and screw into place. The procedure for assembly is as follows:</p>
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<ol>
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<li>Push 2x M3x30 through the motor, from the brass shaft side.</li>
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<li>Carefully insert the motor into the chassis and manipulate it so that the screws are aligned with the screw holes in the chassis side wall.</li>
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<p><em><strong>Note:</strong> This video has no commentary</em></p>
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<figcaption>Motor and wheel assembly video</figcaption>
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</figure>
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<h3 id="attaching-the-molded-plastic-wheels">Attaching the Molded Plastic wheels</h3>
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<h3 id="attaching-the-moulded-plastic-wheels">Attaching the Moulded Plastic wheels</h3>
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<div class="admonition note">
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<p class="admonition-title">Do this Before Attaching The MG996 Servo</p>
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<p>These wheels must be attached before the servo, because the servo obscures access to the screw heads for the left wheel.</p>
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</figure>
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<div class="admonition note">
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<p class="admonition-title">Note: The hole for the servo has been modified since this video was filmed</p>
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<p>For reasons of strength and printing yield, the hole for the servo has been modified on many of the robot chassis, meaning that it is a little tighter than shown in the video. With a little wiggling, you can fit the servo into the rectangular cut out.</p>
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<p>For reasons of strength and printing yield, the hole for the servo has been modified on many of the robot chassis, meaning that it is a little tighter than shown in the video. With a little wiggling, you can fit the servo into the rectangular cut-out.</p>
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<p>Also note that the servo attachment screws have been, from those shown in the video to all M3x12 screws.</p>
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</div>
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<h3 id="assembling-the-lolly-stick-d-assembly">Assembling the Lolly Stick D Assembly</h3>
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<p>The lolly stick assembly comprises of the Sharp <abbr title="Infra Red">IR</abbr> sensor, a laser cut plywood linkage and a servo horn for the MG996, as shown in <debughl><a href="#LollyAss">Fig 10</a></debughl>.</p>
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<p>The lolly stick assembly consists of the Sharp <abbr title="Infra Red">IR</abbr> sensor, a laser cut plywood linkage and a servo horn for the MG996, as shown in <debughl><a href="#LollyAss">Fig 10</a></debughl>.</p>
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<figure>
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<a name="LollyAss"></a>
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<a class="glightbox" href="../Images/Fixing%20Screws%20for%20the%20Lolly%20Stick%20Assembly.jpg" data-type="image" data-width="auto" data-height="auto" data-desc-position="bottom"><img alt="Fixing Screws for the Lolly Stick Assembly." src="../Images/Fixing%20Screws%20for%20the%20Lolly%20Stick%20Assembly.jpg"></a>
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</figure>
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<p><a name="dcPowerSocket"></a></p>
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<h3 id="external-dc-power-socket-and-connection">External DC Power Socket and Connection</h3>
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<p>Some of the robot systems draw too much power to be supplied directly from the Arduino, via the <abbr title="Universal Serial Bus">USB</abbr> link. If you were to were to power the MG996 Servo or the DC motor from the Arduino, then you may pull too much power from the +5V rail and experience erratic behaviour due to the Arduino intermittently restarting – this is referred to as a <debughl><a href="https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/what-is-brown-out-reset-microcontroller-prevent-false-power-down/" target="_blank">brownout restart</a></debughl>.
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<p>Some of the robot systems draw too much power to be supplied directly from the Arduino, via the <abbr title="Universal Serial Bus">USB</abbr> link. If you were to power the MG996 Servo or the DC motor from the Arduino, then you may pull too much power from the +5V rail and experience erratic behaviour due to the Arduino intermittently restarting – this is referred to as a <debughl><a href="https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/what-is-brown-out-reset-microcontroller-prevent-false-power-down/" target="_blank">brownout restart</a></debughl>.
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To overcome this problem, we will use an additional external DC power supply to provide extra current capability for some of the components – MG966 servos and DC motor driver board. To facilitate this, you will add a DC power connector to your robot system, shown in <debughl><a href="#DcPower">Fig 8</a></debughl>.</p>
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<figure>
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<a name="DcPower"></a>
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<li>Sharp <abbr title="Infra Red">IR</abbr> Sensor cable</li>
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<li>6-way Screw Terminal Breakout Board</li>
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</ul>
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<p>The Sharp <abbr title="Infra Red">IR</abbr> Sensor interfaces with the breadboard using the 6-way screw terminal breakoutboard, shown in <debughl><a href="#ScrewBreakout">Fig 12</a></debughl>.</p>
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<p>The Sharp <abbr title="Infra Red">IR</abbr> Sensor interfaces with the breadboard using the 6-way screw terminal breakout board, shown in <debughl><a href="#ScrewBreakout">Fig 12</a></debughl>.</p>
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<figure>
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<a name="ScrewBreakout"></a>
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<a class="glightbox" href="../Images/6-TerminalBreakoutBoard.png" data-type="image" data-width="auto" data-height="auto" data-desc-position="bottom"><img alt="Diagram showing the pinout configuration for the 6-way screw terminal breakout board." src="../Images/6-TerminalBreakoutBoard.png"></a>

search/search_index.json

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