buying your first skateboard

Author: cberes

articles/buying-your-first-skateboard/complete-1200.jpg

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+---
+tags:
+  - articles
+  - skateboarding
+title: Buying your first skateboard
+date: 2026-01-19
+---
+<p>
+  You want to buy a skateboard because you realized skateboarding is tons of fun.
+  But buying a skateboard can be scary and confusing to the uninitiated.
+  Here's a guide to help with your decisions.
+  Spoiler alert: there's no single right answer, but there are some wrong answers.
+</p>
+<p>
+  First, ask yourself what you plan to do on the skateboard.
+  If you change your mind later, that's fine.
+  As you skate more, your interests may change.
+  I'm writing this guide assuming you want to go to the skatepark,
+  learn ollies and kickflips,
+  or skate bowls or miniramps.
+  That's what I have the most experience with.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Your first big choice is whether you want to buy a complete, fully-assembled skateboard,
+  or buy the individual parts.
+  Buying the individual parts, you can assemble the board yourself (which is simple),
+  or if you buy from a skateshop, the shop clerk can assemble it for you.
+</p>
+<h3>Complete skateboards</h3>
+<p>
+  I'd avoid almost anything you can get at big-box stores.
+  The cheap skateboards you can get for $25 or less are usually meant for small children.
+  Their trucks are low quality, the decks are flimsy, the griptape is poor, and the wheels are weird.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Also, I would avoid the tiny <a href="https://www.pennyskateboards.com/collections/skateboards">Penny</a> boards in their classic shape
+  (whether from Penny itself or their imitators).
+  They're fun I'm sure, but they're not meant to be easy to ride.
+  Ollies, turning, and even balancing on the small board will be difficult for beginners.
+</p>
+<img src="complete-1200.jpg" alt="a complete skateboard"/>
+<p>
+  I would get a popsicle-shape deck.
+  You can do just about anything you want on a skateboard with this kind of shape.
+  You can do ollies, you can ride in bowls, and if you put on soft wheels they're great for cruising.
+</p>
+<p>
+  If money is tight, the cheapest decent option is something like an Element complete.
+  I've seen them at Sierra for $50.
+  They come with a real deck, real wheels, and real trucks.
+  None of the three are probably the highest quality.
+  Also your options are limited in terms of deck width, graphics, and wheels.
+  But they're better than the cheap crap from a big-box store.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Next up is a complete from a real skateshop.
+  Usually but not always they come with name-brand parts.
+  You will know that all the components fit together.
+  Again, you will have fewer options for deck width, graphics, trucks, and wheels.
+</p>
+<h3>Custom skateboards</h3>
+<p>
+  This is the most exciting option and the most flexible.
+  You can choose all of the components that you want.
+  You can tailor the board to suit your needs.
+  Or if you like a certain brand, you can buy their products.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Of course, if you're new, you may not know what you want.
+  You haven't developed any preferences for the kind of skateboard you like.
+  And you may not even know what kind of skateboarding you like to do.
+  You may buy a board that's ideal for street skating, but you find you like skating miniramps and bowls.
+</p>
+<p>
+  No matter what kind of skateboard you get, there are a few rules to follow to ensure you have a functional skateboard.
+</p>
+<ol>
+  <li>The trucks should match the width of the board</li>
+  <li>The wheels can't be too big depending on your trucks (or you can use riser pads)</li>
+  <li>The hardware needs to be a little longer if you have riser pads</li>
+</ol>
+<p>
+  There are some things I would avoid if you're a beginner.
+  I've been skating for a few years now, and I still avoid them.
+</p>
+<ol>
+  <li>Expensive technology decks (Flight deck, VX, etc.): As a beginner, it's unlikely you need the extra durability.
+    Furthermore, these decks still wear down when you scrape them on the ground.
+    While the board won't snap, it will still become unusable, just like a standard maple deck.</li>
+  <li>Expensive bearings: Bones Reds or Bronson G3s will last for years.
+    Ceramic balls are nonsense.
+    The ABEC system is meant for machinery, and it's irrelevant for skateboarding.</li>
+  <li>Hollow trucks: I ride hollow trucks, but only because I wanted a lighter board for less stress on my knees.
+    Standard trucks will probably work fine for you.
+    Also there's no sense spending extra money on trucks when you don't know for sure the size or brand of trucks that you like.</li>
+  <li>Inverted trucks: Kingpin clearance matters only if you're doing smith grinds.
+    Since I started skateboarding I've never once worried about kingpin clearance.</li>
+</ol>
+<p>
+  One of the advantages of going to a skateshop is that they can tell you if some of your components are incompatible.
+  If you have questions, you can get answers.
+  They can tell you what products they think are quality and what ones are not.
+  And they can teach you how to setup a new board.
+</p>
+<p>
+  There's no single right answer for your setup.
+  I would stick to cheaper components initially.
+  As your tastes develop, you may decide you want a wider deck, smaller wheels, different trucks, etc.
+  You can refine your skateboard over time.
+</p>
+<img src="deck-1200.jpg" alt="a new skateboard deck"/>
+<h3>Decks</h3>
+<p>
+  Generally you would use a narrower deck for street skating, and a wider deck for bowl or vert skating.
+  If you're a bigger person or have big feet, you might want a wider deck regardless.
+  Since you don't know for sure what you like, I would choose a more middle-of-the-road option.
+  Something between 8 and 8.5 inches, or even narrower if you're small (like a child).
+</p>
+<p>
+  I started with an 8-inch deck.
+  Out of curiosity, I tried larger ones.
+  An 8.5-inch deck felt good.
+  A 9-inch deck felt unwieldy.
+  Right now I'm skating 8.38-inch decks.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Of course, there are things to consider: shape, wheelbase, length, concave, nose/tail size and angle, etc.
+  As you skate more, you'll learn what you like.
+  I still don't know for sure what I like other than width.
+</p>
+<img src="trucks-1200.jpg" alt="some skateboard trucks"/>
+<h3>Trucks</h3>
+<p>
+  The major truck brands are all suitable.
+  Some trucks turn more easily, but as a beginner you may prefer more stable trucks while you're learning to balance.
+  Some trucks are taller, which lets them accommodate larger wheels.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Most importantly, I would match your truck width to your deck width.
+  You could go up or down a size and be fine.
+  As I said earlier, I would avoid hollow or inverted trucks if you're new to the sport.
+  They will save only a few grams, which you likely wouldn't notice early on.
+</p>
+<p>
+  If you're not sure, I would get trucks that are less turny.
+  While you're still learning to balance, it can feel like you can't keep the board level.
+  More stable trucks from Venture or Thunder may be helpful.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Independent and Ace trucks are known to be more turny.
+  When I rode Independent trucks I would put harder bushings in them so they turned less easily.
+  You can do that, but I think buying trucks that you can ride off the shelf is more sensible.
+  Now that I've been skating for a few years, I prefer a more turny truck.
+  Recently I got a pair of Ace trucks, which are known for being "carvy."
+</p>
+<p>
+  Slappy Trucks is a new brand, but I don't know much about them.
+  I have their low trucks, which didn't turn enough for me.
+  But I was told their taller trucks are too turny.
+  Krux trucks are known for having fun graphics, but I have no experience with them
+  Also, there are budget options like Mini Logo.
+</p>
+<img src="wheels-1200.jpg" alt="some skateboard wheels"/>
+<h3>Wheels</h3>
+<p>
+  The biggest options are width and hardness.
+  Width is measured in millimeters (mm).
+  Hardness is measured using a Shore durometer scale, but they typically use the A scale, which is silly.
+  You can know just that smaller numbers are softer, and higher numbers are harder.
+</p>
+<p>
+  If you want a cruiser deck for riding around, get big, soft wheels.
+  (Remember, if the wheels are too big, you will need riser pads and longer hardware.)
+  Otherwise, if you're unsure I would get 99-hardness wheels, around 50 to 56 mm tall.
+  With lower trucks I would stick to the smaller end of that range.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Harder wheels are good, because they slide better.
+  Some slide is good for many tricks.
+  101-hardness wheels may be good on concrete, but too hard for Skatelite (indoor ramps).
+  97-hardness wheels may be better for Skatelite and give you a slightly smoother ride at the cost of less slide.
+</p>
+<p>
+  However, not all wheels of the same hardness ride the same.
+  My 101 OJ wheels are incredibly slippery, but my 101 Satori wheels are perfect for Skatelite.
+</p>
+<h3>Bearings</h3>
+<p>
+  The first bearings I got were Bones Reds.
+  They lasted for over a year.
+  I've also had Bones Swiss, and I can't really tell the difference between the two.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Bearings can wear down: most notably they can rust and the cages can break.
+  I would get cheaper bearings, especially if you're new.
+  You can save your money for a replacement pair.
+  You can worry less when your board rolls into some dirt.
+  If you want to, you can try more expensive bearings later on when you know you'll get your money's worth.
+</p>
+<img src="grip-1200.jpg" alt="skateboards with grip"/>
+<h3>Griptape</h3>
+<p>
+  You can choose any of the major brands and be fine.
+  I would pick a brand and stick with it&mdash;it will be one less thing to get used to when you get a new deck.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Mob, Jessup, and Pepper are all great.
+  I like Jessup because it's made in the USA.
+</p>
+<p>
+  I rode non-abrasive DKL grip for a while.
+  It works like normal grip, but doesn't scrape up your shoes.
+  However, putting it on can be tricky.
+  A little water can make it slippery until it dries.
+  Furthermore, there's a chance it will wear down before your deck is 100% done.
+</p>
+<p>
+  Also I tried No Rip grip.
+  If I recall correctly, it was easier to put on a deck, but I don't remember much about it.
+</p>
+<p>
+  I stopped using the non-abrasive grip because I realized my shoes wear out even if they didn't have holes in them.
+  If you're doing ollies, then you'll be jumping repeatedly on your shoes.
+  This breaks them down.
+  Your shoes may last longer, but they won't last forever.
+</p>