ac-data.js

// ===== AC COMPONENT DATA =====
var AC_COMPONENTS = [
  {id:'compressor',name:'Compressor',code:'CMP-001',desc:'The heart of the system. Pumps refrigerant through the coils, compressing low-pressure gas into high-pressure hot gas. Typically a scroll or reciprocating type in residential units.',symptoms:['No cooling','Humming but not starting','Tripping breaker','Short cycling','Loud knocking'],tests:'Check capacitor first. Measure winding resistance (should be <5Ω between R-S and R-C, infinite to ground). Check amp draw against nameplate. Listen for internal bypass valve chattering.',repair:'Failed compressors require replacement — not field-repairable. Must recover refrigerant, replace filter-drier, pull deep vacuum, recharge by weight. $800-2500 parts + labor.'},
  {id:'capacitor',name:'Run/Start Capacitor',code:'CAP-002',desc:'Stores and releases electrical energy to start the compressor and fan motors. A dual-run capacitor serves both. The #1 most common failure point in residential AC.',symptoms:['Humming but not starting','Hard starting','Fan not spinning','Compressor clicks off','AC runs then stops'],tests:'VISUAL FIRST: bulged top, leaking oil, or swollen case = failed. Discharge with resistor. Measure capacitance (μF) — should be within ±6% of rating. Test with multimeter on capacitance setting.',repair:'$15-45 part. Discharge old cap safely. Match exact μF rating and voltage (same or higher V). Wire exactly as old unit. Most DIY-friendly fix.'},
  {id:'contactor',name:'Contactor',code:'CON-003',desc:'Heavy-duty relay that switches 240V to the compressor and condenser fan when the thermostat calls for cooling. The coil operates on 24V from the thermostat circuit.',symptoms:['No response from outdoor unit','Buzzing/chattering sound','Burned/pitted contacts','AC won\'t turn off','Intermittent operation'],tests:'Visual: pitted/burned contacts, ants/debris bridging contacts. With power OFF, check coil resistance (10-20Ω). With 24V applied, should pull in firmly. Check voltage across contacts when closed (should be 0V).',repair:'$20-60 part. Match amp rating and number of poles. Clean mounting surface. Torque lugs to spec. Ants are a common failure — consider contactor with sealed cover.'},
  {id:'condenser-fan',name:'Condenser Fan Motor',code:'CFM-004',desc:'Moves air across the outdoor condenser coil to reject heat. Typically 1/8 to 1/3 HP, 825-1075 RPM. May be PSC (permanent split capacitor) or ECM (electronically commutated).',symptoms:['Fan not spinning','Fan slow or weak','Loud grinding noise','Overheating and shutting off','Wobbling blade'],tests:'Spin blade by hand — should rotate freely. Check capacitor. Measure winding resistance. Check for 240V at motor leads during call for cooling. ECM motors: check control module for diagnostic LED codes.',repair:'$100-300 motor. Match HP, RPM, rotation direction, frame size, and shaft diameter. Replace capacitor at same time. Balance blade after install.'},
  {id:'evaporator-coil',name:'Evaporator Coil',code:'EVP-005',desc:'Indoor coil where cold liquid refrigerant absorbs heat from your home\'s air. Air passes through the coil, cools down, and is distributed through ductwork. Operates at ~40°F.',symptoms:['Ice on coil','Reduced airflow','Not cooling enough','Water leaks','Musty odor'],tests:'Visual inspection for ice, dirt, or oil stains (indicates leak). Check air filter first. Measure temperature drop across coil (should be 15-22°F). Check refrigerant pressures. Inspect drain pan and line.',repair:'Cleaning: $100-300 pro, or DIY with no-rinse coil cleaner. Leaking coil: $600-2000 replacement. Always check airflow (filter + blower) before condemning the coil.'},
  {id:'condenser-coil',name:'Condenser Coil',code:'CND-006',desc:'Outdoor coil where hot compressed refrigerant gas condenses back to liquid, releasing heat to outside air. Aluminum fins on copper tubing maximize surface area.',symptoms:['High head pressure','Unit short cycling','Poor cooling','Higher electric bills','Unit running constantly'],tests:'Visual: dirty/clogged fins, bent fins blocking airflow. Check temperature difference across coil. Measure subcooling. Inspect for oil stains (refrigerant leak indicator). Check fan operation.',repair:'Clean with coil cleaner and gentle water spray (never pressure-wash — bends fins). Straighten fins with fin comb ($10). Severely damaged coils: $800-2000 replacement.'},
  {id:'blower-motor',name:'Blower Motor',code:'BLW-007',desc:'Indoor fan that circulates air through the evaporator coil and ductwork. May be PSC with multi-speed taps or variable-speed ECM. Located in the air handler or furnace cabinet.',symptoms:['Weak airflow','No air from vents','Loud humming','Motor runs but no air','Burning smell'],tests:'Check capacitor (PSC motors). Verify voltage at motor. Check amp draw. Inspect blower wheel for debris/broken fins. ECM: check control board diagnostic codes. Measure static pressure if possible.',repair:'$200-600 motor. Match HP, RPM, rotation, and mounting. ECM motors must match exact model. Clean blower wheel while motor is out. Check duct static pressure after install.'},
  {id:'thermostat',name:'Thermostat',code:'TST-008',desc:'The control brain. Sends 24V signals to the contactor, blower relay, and reversing valve (heat pumps). Modern digital/smart thermostats also control staging and dehumidification.',symptoms:['Blank screen','Wrong temperature reading','AC won\'t turn on','Short cycling','AC won\'t turn off','Schedule not following'],tests:'Check batteries. Verify 24V between R and C at thermostat base. Jump R to Y (cooling) and R to G (fan) at the terminal block — if AC starts, thermostat is the issue. Check for loose wires. Verify WiFi connection on smart stats.',repair:'$25-250. Match system type (1H/1C, 2H/2C, heat pump). Label wires before removing old stat. Configure for correct system type. Common wire (C) required for smart thermostats.'},
  {id:'refrigerant',name:'Refrigerant Charge',code:'RFR-009',desc:'The working fluid (R-410A in modern units, R-22 in pre-2010 units). Changes state from liquid to gas and back, absorbing and releasing heat. Must be at a precise charge level for efficient operation.',symptoms:['Low cooling','Ice on lines or coil','Hissing sound','Higher electric bills','Short cycling','Compressor overheating'],tests:'Requires manifold gauges and temperature clamps. Check superheat (fixed orifice) or subcooling (TXV). Low charge: low suction pressure, low subcooling, high superheat. Overcharge: high head pressure, high subcooling, low superheat. Bubble check fittings with soap solution.',repair:'EPA 608 certification required. Find and fix leak first (never just top off). Evacuate, repair leak, pressure test with nitrogen, pull vacuum below 500 microns, weigh in exact charge per nameplate. $200-600 pro service.'},
  {id:'txv',name:'Thermal Expansion Valve',code:'TXV-010',desc:'Meters refrigerant into the evaporator based on suction line temperature. Maintains constant superheat for optimal efficiency. Found on most units SEER 13+. Some units use a fixed orifice (piston) instead.',symptoms:['Poor cooling','Ice on evaporator','Hunting/fluctuating pressures','Equalized pressures','Flooding/slugging compressor'],tests:'Check superheat — should be 8-12°F at evaporator outlet. Place sensing bulb in warm hand — suction pressure should rise. Check for debris in inlet screen. Feel for temperature difference across valve.',repair:'$200-500 part + labor. Must recover refrigerant. Replace filter-drier. Flow nitrogen while brazing to prevent oxidation. Pull vacuum, recharge. Often misdiagnosed — verify airflow and charge first.'},
  {id:'reversing-valve',name:'Reversing Valve',code:'REV-011',desc:'Heat pump only. Switches refrigerant flow direction to change between heating and cooling modes. A solenoid coil moves an internal slide against system pressure differential.',symptoms:['Stuck in one mode','Only heats or only cools','Noisy operation','Valve body hot on one side'],tests:'Check for 24V at solenoid coil in appropriate mode. Tap valve body gently — sometimes stuck slide frees. Measure temperature difference across valve (should be minimal). Check solenoid coil resistance (10-20Ω).',repair:'$300-600 part + labor. Requires full refrigerant recovery. Critical to flow nitrogen during brazing — internal slide is easily damaged by heat/oxidation. Replace solenoid coil first as a test ($30).'},
  {id:'filter-drier',name:'Filter Drier',code:'FLD-012',desc:'Traps moisture, acid, and debris in the refrigerant circuit. A sacrificial component that should be replaced whenever the system is opened. Contains desiccant beads that adsorb moisture.',symptoms:['Restricted flow','Temperature drop across drier','High superheat','Poor cooling after recent repair'],tests:'Feel temperature across drier — should be the same on both sides (temperature drop = restricted). Check for frost on outlet. Replace any time system is opened for repair.',repair:'$15-40 part. Always replace when system is opened. Match connection type (sweat or flare). Install with arrow in direction of flow. Flow nitrogen while brazing.'},
  {id:'control-board',name:'Control Board',code:'PCB-013',desc:'The electronic brain of modern furnaces and air handlers. Controls blower speeds, staging, safety lockouts, and diagnostic LED codes. Communicates with thermostat and outdoor unit.',symptoms:['No response','LED error codes','Blower runs constantly','No communication','Random lockouts'],tests:'Check for 24V power to board. Count LED flash codes — refer to unit\'s diagnostic chart. Check 3A or 5A automotive-style fuse on board. Inspect for burned traces or swollen capacitors. Verify all connectors seated.',repair:'$150-400 board. Must match exact part number. Take photo of all connections before removing. Some boards require programming. Check for underlying issue that killed the board (short in contactor coil, etc.).'},
  {id:'drain-line',name:'Condensate Drain',code:'DRN-014',desc:'Carries condensation from the evaporator coil to a floor drain or outside. Includes a P-trap to prevent air from being sucked in. A clogged drain is one of the most common service calls.',symptoms:['Water around furnace','Water in drain pan','Musty smell','Float switch tripping','Ceiling water damage','High humidity'],tests:'Visual: standing water in pan, algae growth. Pour water into drain — should flow freely. Check float switch operation. Inspect P-trap for debris. Check for proper slope (1/4" per foot minimum). Look for disconnected sections.',repair:'Clear with wet/dry vac from outside termination. Flush with white vinegar or mild bleach solution (1:10). Install EZ Trap or cleanout tee for future maintenance. Verify float switch shuts off system when tripped.'}
];

// ===== SYMPTOM DATA =====
var AC_SYMPTOMS = [
  {name:'No power — completely dead',causes:['Tripped circuit breaker','Blown disconnect fuse','Failed contactor','Tripped float switch','Bad thermostat (no 24V)','Open high-pressure switch','Open low-pressure switch','Failed control board'],severity:'warn'},
  {name:'Outdoor unit not running but indoor fan works',causes:['Failed run capacitor','Burned contactor','Tripped breaker (outdoor only)','Open pressure switch','Failed compressor','Bad defrost board (heat pump)','Loose thermostat wire at Y terminal'],severity:'warn'},
  {name:'AC runs but not cooling',causes:['Dirty condenser coil','Low refrigerant charge','Failed compressor (not pumping)','Reversing valve stuck mid-position (heat pump)','Undersized unit','Duct leakage','Dirty evaporator coil'],severity:'warn'},
  {name:'AC runs but weak airflow',causes:['Dirty air filter','Frozen evaporator coil','Blower motor failing','Blower capacitor weak','Ductwork collapsed or disconnected','Closed supply registers','Undersized ductwork'],severity:'safe'},
  {name:'Breaker tripping immediately',causes:['Shorted compressor','Grounded compressor winding','Shorted fan motor','Burned contactor (welded contacts)','Damaged wiring (rodent chew)','Failed capacitor','Wrong size breaker installed'],severity:'urgent'},
  {name:'Ice on refrigerant lines or coil',causes:['Low refrigerant charge','Restricted airflow (dirty filter)','Failed blower motor','Closed/blocked registers','Dirty evaporator coil','Failed TXV','Low outdoor temperature operation'],severity:'warn'},
  {name:'Loud buzzing/humming from outdoor unit',causes:['Failed capacitor (compressor won\'t start)','Seized compressor','Failed contactor (chattering coil)','Loose mounting bolts','Failed fan motor bearing','Debris in condenser fan'],severity:'warn'},
  {name:'Loud grinding or squealing',causes:['Failed condenser fan motor bearing','Failed blower motor bearing','Compressor internal failure','Loose or damaged fan blade','Belt-drive blower (older units) needs belt','Debris in blower wheel'],severity:'warn'},
  {name:'Short cycling (turns on/off frequently)',causes:['Oversized unit','Dirty air filter','Low refrigerant','Frozen evaporator coil','Thermostat in bad location (draft, sun)','High-pressure switch tripping','Restricted condenser airflow'],severity:'safe'},
  {name:'Water leaking inside',causes:['Clogged condensate drain line','Cracked drain pan','Frozen coil thawing','Improperly trapped drain','Disconnected drain line','Negative air pressure pulling water past trap','Float switch failure'],severity:'warn'},
  {name:'AC won\'t turn off',causes:['Welded contactor contacts','Stuck thermostat relay','Shorted thermostat wire (R to Y)','Control board failure','Thermostat set too low','Bad fan limit switch (older units)'],severity:'warn'},
  {name:'Burning or electrical smell',causes:['Overheating blower motor','Burned capacitor','Burned wire connection','Failed control board component','Seized motor drawing locked-rotor amps','Dust burning off heat strips (first use of season)'],severity:'urgent'},
  {name:'Uneven cooling — some rooms hot',causes:['Closed or blocked registers','Undersized duct runs','Duct leakage in attic/basement','Poor insulation in hot rooms','Window solar gain','Single-zone limitations','Damper adjustment needed'],severity:'safe'},
  {name:'High humidity inside',causes:['Oversized unit (short cycles, doesn\'t dehumidify)','Fan speed too high','Thermostat fan set to ON instead of AUTO','Low refrigerant charge','Dirty evaporator coil','Leaky ductwork pulling in humid air'],severity:'safe'},
  {name:'Thermostat blank or unresponsive',causes:['Dead batteries','Tripped 24V transformer','Blown fuse on control board','Loose wire connection','Failed thermostat','Float switch breaking R circuit','Door switch on air handler not engaged'],severity:'safe'}
];

// ===== REPAIR GUIDES =====
var AC_REPAIRS = [
  {title:'Replace a Failed Run Capacitor',time:'15-30 min',difficulty:'Easy',tools:'Nut driver set, needle-nose pliers, multimeter with capacitance, insulated screwdriver, discharge resistor (10KΩ 5W)',steps:[
    {title:'KILL POWER',desc:'Turn off AC at the thermostat. Turn off the double-pole breaker for the outdoor unit at the main electrical panel. Verify power is off with a non-contact voltage tester at the disconnect box.',safety:true},
    {title:'Open Access Panel',desc:'Remove the screws securing the condenser unit access panel. Set panel aside. Locate the capacitor — it is a cylindrical or oval metal can with 2-4 terminals on top.'},
    {title:'DOCUMENT Wiring',desc:'Take a clear photo of all wire connections. Note which wire color goes to which terminal (C=Common, FAN=Fan, HERM=Compressor). This photo is your lifeline for reassembly.'},
    {title:'Discharge Capacitor',desc:'Using a 10KΩ 5W resistor across each terminal pair (C to FAN, C to HERM, FAN to HERM), discharge any stored charge. Capacitors can hold lethal voltage even with power off.',safety:true},
    {title:'Remove Old Capacitor',desc:'Disconnect wires from terminals. Remove mounting strap or bracket. Check for oil leaks or bulging — confirms failure. Note the μF (microfarad) rating and voltage printed on the label.'},
    {title:'Install New Capacitor',desc:'Mount new capacitor (exact same μF, same or higher voltage rating). Reconnect wires exactly as photographed. Tighten terminal screws snugly. Ensure no stray wire strands.'},
    {title:'Test and Close',desc:'Replace access panel. Turn breaker ON. Turn thermostat to COOL. Listen for normal compressor and fan start. Measure new capacitor if you want confirmation — should be within spec.'}
  ]},
  {title:'Clean a Clogged Condensate Drain Line',time:'20-40 min',difficulty:'Easy',tools:'Wet/dry shop vac, white vinegar or bleach, funnel, rags, PVC cutter (if installing cleanout)',steps:[
    {title:'Locate Drain Termination',desc:'Find where the white PVC drain line exits your house — typically near the outdoor condenser unit, emerging from the wall at ground level. It should be a 3/4" PVC pipe.'},
    {title:'Vacuum From Outside',desc:'Attach wet/dry vac to the outdoor drain termination. Create a tight seal with a rag or duct tape. Run vac for 2-3 minutes. You should hear gurgling and see slime/water in the vac.',safety:true},
    {title:'Flush With Vinegar',desc:'At the indoor unit, locate the drain line access (a capped T or open standpipe near the evaporator coil). Pour 1-2 cups of white vinegar down the drain. Let sit 30 minutes.'},
    {title:'Flush With Water',desc:'Pour 1-2 quarts of warm water through the drain to push vinegar and remaining debris through. Verify water flows freely out the outdoor termination.'},
    {title:'Verify Float Switch',desc:'Test the safety float switch (if present) by lifting the float — the system should shut off. Clean the switch with a damp cloth. This switch prevents ceiling floods.'},
    {title:'Preventive Treatment',desc:'Pour 1 cup of white vinegar down the drain monthly during cooling season. Consider installing an EZ Trap or adding a cleanout tee for easier future access.'}
  ]},
  {title:'Clean a Dirty Condenser Coil',time:'30-60 min',difficulty:'Easy',tools:'Garden hose with spray nozzle, coil cleaner (foaming type), fin comb, screwdriver set, work gloves',steps:[
    {title:'KILL POWER','desc':'Turn off the breaker and the outdoor disconnect. Verify with voltage tester.',safety:true},
    {title:'Remove Debris',desc:'Clear leaves, grass clippings, cottonwood fluff, and dirt from around the unit. Trim vegetation at least 2 feet away on all sides.'},
    {title:'Apply Coil Cleaner',desc:'Spray foaming coil cleaner liberally across all sides of the condenser coil. Let it dwell for 10-15 minutes (do not let it dry). The foam lifts dirt out from between the fins.'},
    {title:'Rinse Thoroughly',desc:'Using a garden hose with a gentle spray (NEVER a pressure washer), rinse from the inside out if possible. Spray at a 90-degree angle to the fins — angled spray bends fins. Rinse until water runs clear.'},
    {title:'Straighten Fins',desc:'Use a fin comb ($10 at any hardware store) to straighten any bent fins. Even 10% blockage reduces efficiency significantly. Work gently — aluminum fins tear easily.'},
    {title:'Reassemble and Test',desc:'Replace any panels removed. Restore power. Run the system and verify proper operation. You should notice improved cooling within 30 minutes.'}
  ]}
];

// ===== SAFETY RULES =====
var AC_SAFETY = [
  {title:'Disconnect Power',desc:'Always turn off the breaker AND the disconnect switch at the outdoor unit before working on any electrical component. Verify with a non-contact voltage tester. 240V AC is instantly lethal.',severity:'urgent'},
  {title:'Capacitor Danger',desc:'Run capacitors store lethal charge even after power is disconnected. Always discharge each terminal pair to ground with an insulated resistor before touching terminals.',severity:'urgent'},
  {title:'Refrigerant Handling',desc:'Refrigerant must be recovered by EPA-certified technicians (Section 608). Venting refrigerant to the atmosphere is illegal and carries fines up to $37,500 per day. R-410A operates at 300-450 PSI.',severity:'urgent'},
  {title:'Sheet Metal Hazards',desc:'AC equipment has razor-sharp edges. Wear heavy work gloves when reaching into cabinets. The condenser coil fins will slice skin instantly. Duck tape over exposed sharp edges during service.',severity:'warn'},
  {title:'Ladder Safety',desc:'Many AC repairs require ladder work. Use a fiberglass ladder (never aluminum near electrical). Maintain 3 points of contact. Do not lean over the sides. Tie off if working above 6 feet.',severity:'warn'},
  {title:'When to Call a Pro',desc:'ANY repair involving the sealed refrigeration system (compressor, coils, TXV, reversing valve, refrigerant lines). Any electrical work if you are not 100% confident. Any repair where you cannot identify the root cause. Gas furnace repairs (carbon monoxide risk).',severity:'safe'}
];