Load test with 3.5 ton AC - soft starter is needed #1183
Replies: 9 comments 16 replies
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In my experience it is much faster than a breaker flip and sensitive devices like computers and TVs don't seem to notice. However, if you have a lot of heavy loads at the time, you will get the bad chug of the generator slamming into all those loads at once. The generator is also not sync'd with the utility cycle, so if you have loads like AC compressor fans, they may end up slightly out of sync which can make them run rough until they shut down or until the transfer test ends. All that said, I have mine scheduled for 9:30 on the first of every month and the only thing I take caution with is making sure I don't have the car charging (48A load and the car is touchy about the generator) and the pool heater (electric heat pump) isn't running which is usually only a concern for me on 11/1 and 5/1. |
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Also, to add to @skipfire's answer, "Start and Transfer" will start the generator, then wait for it to become stable (which takes second or 2) then the transfer switch is activated so there is not "outage". When you Stop a previously started "Start and Transfer" the transfer switch is disengaged, then the generator will continue to run for a cool down period, like it does after an outage, before eventually stoping. |
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Thank you for the prompt replies! The reason I asked was because I couldn't find the "transition time" spec for my transfer switch. On the other hand, the average "hold-up time" for common home appliances (PCs, TVs, Fridges, LEDs, Washers...) is around 50 milliseconds give or take. So If you didn't see any noticeable interruptions, the transfer switch must achieve ~50 milliseconds transition time, which is close to Generac's commercial grade transfer switch. |
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I did the load test. Hardly noticed any interruption. But sadly the 3.5 ton AC compressor refused to start 😢. It kept trying though, for several times. But only ended up "choking" the generator and caused all lights to flickering. In theory, a 22kw generator should be able to handle the operating current (18Amps) but probably not the starting current (112Amps). I'm talking to the generator guy to see what the options are. |
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Higher end HVAC systems use to come with the extra "hard start" cap but many were omitted as a cost save from various accounts of people in the trade. Maybe right , maybe not but hard or soft start does assist on starting load. My 5-2-1 made a noticeable difference for my AC start up on regular house current , no light flickering or deep kick on sound. Compressor starts a lot "cleaner" or faster. I also replaced the standard start cap with a quality Amrad USA made main capacitor. It has an added lug as a compressor saver that cuts power if the relay sticks. 22KW is a good amount of juice but the LRA off your outside unit plate is the reference number for the amps you need. |
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Gentlemen, assuming this is a school project, I'm going to use data and facts to settle it.
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I am not using Generac load management but can attest to the 5-2-1 hard start add on , works fine with my 22KW system. The 5-2-1 is really inexpensive and simple to put on , just mount the relay in the correct direction ( up ). |
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Ironically, the real culprit is the stupid capacitor 😠. I swapped it with a new AmRad. It made a huge difference, now the inrush is down to a whopping Funny that capacitance-wise the old one is actually closer to its spec 45/5 uF, while AmRad is 46.2/5.1 uF but of course a cap has other characteristics that have huge impact on the inrush. I guess it would've worked if I only replaced the capacitor without having to go through all the troubles. But it's too late, I'm settled with Airgo + AmRad now 😂 |
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Caps are magical devices. Glad you got your system working. |


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I'm about to use Genmon to do a load test (
Start Generator and Transfer) on my Generac 22kw natural gas gen. I assume when we do that, we'd experience a short power outage that last X milliseconds (X =Transfer switch transition time)?Of course I'll maintain a low load during the test (just lights, computers, fridge, etc. No AC.). But I wonder if this is a bad thing for my appliances, depending on the how long the X is. Since it's basically the same as flickering your main circuit breaker on/off.
I did lost an expensive range hood and a desktop computer PSU when accidentally flickering the main circuit breaker in the past...
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