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These are the assembly instructions for the BabyCube. These instructions are not fully comprehensive, that is they do
not show every small detail of the construction, and in particular they do not show the wiring. However there is sufficient
detail that someone with a good understanding of 3D printers can build the BabyCube.
The motor for the Z-axis has an integrated lead screw: in the Parts List the length specified is the length that
protrudes from the motor. Some suppliers specify the total length of the lead screw, that is including the part that
is inside the motor, so check how your supplier specifies the part before ordering. Another option is to order a motor
with a lead screw that is too long and cut to size, not however that lead screws are made from hardened steel and cannot
be cut with a hacksaw - an angle grinder is required to cut them.
If you wish to use a Raspberry Pi (for running OctoPrint or Klipper), note that there is not enough space for a full size
Raspberry Pi (eg a Pi 4), but the smaller Pi 3A+ or Pi Zero 2W will fit.
Tips for printing the parts
Many parts on the BabyCube are designed to press-fit together (a bit like Lego), so the tolerances are quite tight.
For this reason it is important you printer is properly calibrated before you print the BabyCube parts. In particular
the extruder should be calibrated, the printbed correctly trammed (levelled), and "elephant's foot" compensation set
if required.
The printed parts can be divided into two classes, the "large parts" (ie the left, right, top and back faces), and the
"small parts" (the rest of the parts)
I recommend using a 0.6mm nozzle for printing all the parts, but especially the for the large parts.
Parts in proximity to heat sources
A number of parts are in proximity with heat sources, namely the hotend, the heated bed and the motors. Ideally these
should be printed in ABS, but I have used successfully used PETG. These parts are insulated from direct contact with
the heat sources, by O-rings and cork underlay (for the heated bed) and by cork dampers (for the motors). These
insulators should not be omitted from the build.
Small parts
For dimensional accuracy the small parts need to be printed with a layer height of 0.25mm and a first layer height of 0.25mm.
To maximise part strength, I use the following:
extrusion width of 0.7mm if using a 0.6mm nozzle, 0.65mm if using a 0.4mm nozzle
3 perimeters
3 top and bottom layers
Grid (or honeycomb) infill - not any of the weaker infills (eg Rectangular). 30% infill.
Large parts
For the large parts, I use a 0.6mm nozzle with the following settings:
Layer height 0.5mm, same for first layer height
Extrusion width of 1.0mm
2 perimeters (only 2 needed because of the 1.0mm extrusion width)
2 bottom layers (only 2 needed because of the 0.5mm layer height)
3 top layers (3 needed because the first layer may be in some parts a bridging layer and so is not full strength,
the second and third layers are structural layers).
Grid infill at 30%. I find that honeycomb infill, although stronger, is more prone to warping. 30% is used to enable
the part cooling fan to be switched off (see tips below).
First layer speed 25mm/s
If using a standard E3D v6 hotend (ie not a Volcano or other high-volume hotend) set the max volumetric speed to
14mm3/s for PLA, 11mm3/s for ABS, or 8mm3/s for PETG
The large parts take up almost the full extent of the print bed and as a result can be prone to warping.
If you have problems with warping, I suggest the following:
disable the part cooling fan for the first 10mm (20 layers) or more. The part cooling fan is only really required
for the bridges for the motor mounts and switch mounts, since there are no overhangs and the small bolt holes bridge
fine without part cooling.
raise the temperature of the heated bed.
add a brim
Part substitutions
There is some scope for part substitution:
Generally caphead bolts can be used instead of button head bolts, except on the print head where caphead bolts may interfere
with homing.
I strongly recommend using an aluminium baseplate, but if you have difficulty sourcing this, or cutting it to size, a
3D printed baseplate can be used instead.
Configuring the printer
There are a number of features that are important to consider when configuring the printer.
Sensorless homing
Configuring sensorless homing on the X and Y axes is done in the standard way. Sensorless homing on the Z-axis must
be set up to home at the bottom of the Z-axis - so that homing does not cause the print head to crash into the print
bed.
Power management
The steady state power usage of the BabyCube during printing is about 40W, well within the capabilities of the 120W
power supply. However peak power usage must be managed so as not to exceed 120W.
Use PID temperature control (not bang-bang) for the heated bed. In Marlin this means defining PIDTEMPBED in
configuration.h
In the printer start gcode in your slicer, do not set all the heating going at once, instead use a phased approach
Use M104 S160 to start the hotend heating without waiting
Home the Y axis (note Y axis should be homed before X axis to avoid possible printhead collision with sides)
Home the X axis
Home the Z axis
Use M400 to wait for the motors to stop
Use M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} to set the first layer bed temperature
Use M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} to set the temperature for nozzle 0 and wait
This avoids having all the motors and both heaters on during startup. Once the hotend and heated bed have warmed up,
their power usage decreases (since they use PID controllers, and power usage is (mostly) proportional (that's the P in
PID) to the difference between the actual heater temperature and the target temperature).
Example printer start gcode for Slic3r/PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer is here.
Example printer end gcode for is here.
Fans
The power supply is 19.5V and the fans specified are 12V. This is handled by setting FAN_MAX_PWM to 157 and
EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED to 150 in configuration_adv.h. (12/19.5*255 = 157, so setting these values to 157 or
less ensures the fans' voltage specification is not exceeded.)
Marlin configuration
The changes to configuration.h and configuration_adv.h are here.
Klipper configuration
A starting point for the Klipper configuration is here.
This only a starting point and should be adjusted according to your components.
In particular note that the endstop sensitivities (that is the driver_SGTHRS values) must be tuned for each axis.
They are currently set at 255, the most sensitive value and this will need to be reduced as part of the tuning.
Insert the belts into the X_Carriage_Belt_Tensioners and then bolt the tensioners into the
X_Carriage_Belt_Side_MGN9C part as shown. Note the belts are not shown in this diagram.
Turn the Top_Face upside down and place it on a flat surface.
Bolt the rails to the Top_Face. Note that the first and last bolts on the left rail are countersunk bolts and act
as pilot bolts to ensure the rails are aligned precisely - they should be tightened before all the other bolts on the
left side.
The bolts on the right side rail should be only loosely tightened - they will be fully tightened when the right rail
is aligned when the X axis rail is added.
Attach the left and right Y_carriages to the top face rails. Note that the two carriages are not interchangeable
so be sure to attach them as shown in the diagram.
The carriages should be attached to the rails before the pulleys are added, since otherwise the bolts are not
accessible.
Attach the pulleys to the carriages. Note that the toothless pulleys are on the inside. Note also that there is a
washer under each of the upper pulleys, but not on top of those pulleys.
Tighten the pulley bolts until the pulleys stop running freely, and then loosen them slightly (approximately 1/16
of a turn) so they run freely.
Turn the Top_Face upside down again and place it on a flat surface.
Align the left and right Y-axis linear rails. Do this by pushing the X-axis rail to the rear of the Top_Face and tighten
the corresponding bolts (left loose in a previous step) and then push the X-axis rails to the front of the Top_Face,
again tightening the corresponding bolts.
Check that the carriages run smoothly on the Y-axis linear rails.
This is the standard variant of the print bed, using an OpenBuilds 100mm heated bed. There is also a version using
a 120 x 120 x 6 mm aluminium tooling plate, see printbed 120.
Prepare the the cork underlay by cutting it to size, making a cutout for the heated bed wiring, and making cutouts
for the bolts and O-rings.
Prepare the magnetic base by drilling holes for the bolts.
Prepare the heated bed by soldering on the wires and sticking on the magnetic base. Drill bolt holes in the magnetic base.
Place the cork underlay on the Z_Carriage and place the heated bed on top.
Secure the heated bed to the Z_Carriage, using the bolts and O-rings. The O-rings allow for bed leveling and help
thermally insulate the heated bed from the Z_Carriage.
Secure the heated bed wiring to the underside of the printbed using zipties.
Attach the SK brackets to the Back_Face. Note the orientation of the tightening bolts: the top tightening bolts should
face inward and the bottom tightening bolts should face outward. This allows access after the BabyCube is fully assembled.
Stepper motor NEMA17 x 34mm, 150mm integrated leadscrew
1
Stepper motor cable, 150mm
Sub-assemblies
1 x Back_Face_Stage_1_assembly
1 x Print_bed_assembly
Assembly instructions
Slide the linear rods through the SK brackets and the printbed bearings.
Tighten the bolts in the SK brackets, ensuring the Z_Carriage slides freely on the rods.
Place the cork damper on the stepper motor and thread the lead screw through the leadnut and attach the stepper motor
to the Back_Face. Note the orientation of the JST socket.
Place the cork damper on the stepper motor and bolt the motor to the frame.
Note the cork damper is important as it provides thermal insulation between the stepper motor and the frame.
Note orientation of the JST connector.
Attach the toothed idler pulleys to the frame, separated by the washers as shown.
Thread the zip ties through the frame, but do not tighten them yet, since the extruder motor cable will also go through
the zip ties.
Place the cork damper on the stepper motor and attach the motor through the frame to the extruder. Note the cork
damper is important as it provides thermal insulation between the stepper motor and the frame.
Secure the cables for both motors with the zip ties.
Aluminium box section 12mm x 8mm x 1mm, length 85mm
1
Aluminium sheet 220mm x 204mm x 3mm
1
BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 v2.0
2
Bolt M3 buttonhead x 10mm
10
Bolt M3 caphead x 8mm
5
Pillar hex nylon F/F M3x12
1
Raspberry Pi 3A+ (optional)
3D Printed parts
1 x Base.stl
1 x Base_Template.stl
1 x PSU_Bracket.stl
2 x PSU_Support.stl
CNC Routed parts
1 x BaseAL.dxf
Assembly instructions
Attach the Base_Template to the aluminium sheet and use it to drill out the holes. The base template has 2mm holes
marked out for pilot holes. Once you have drilled these re-drill the holes with a 3mm bit. Note that the Base_Template
has holes marked for the BTT E3 Mini V2, the BTT E3 Turbo and the BTT STL 1.4 boards - choose the appropriate holes for
your board. If you are unable to source an aluminium sheet, it is possible to print and use the Base.stl file, but
using and aluminium plate is much preferred.
Attach the PSU_Supports to the base plate with double sided tape.
Bolt the PSU_Bracket to the base plate.
Attach the PSU to the base plate with the velcro straps.
Cover the top and bottom sides of the box section with thermal paste.
Attach the box section to the bottom of the control board with electrical tape. The tape serves to keep the box
section in place until it is attached to the base plate.
Using the hex pillars, attach the control board to the base plate.
Place the cork damper on the stepper motor and bolt the motor to the frame.
Note the cork damper is important as it provides thermal insulation between the stepper motor and the frame.
Note orientation of the JST connector.
Secure the motor wires with zip ties.
Bolt the two front idler pulleys with washers to the frame.
Attach the wires to the switch and bolt the Switch_Shroud to the left face.