Consider upgrading `criterion` to `0.4.0`, removing `html_reports` and switching to `cargo criterion`

[Muscraft]

Motivation

In #12057, it was noted that the comment "Consider removing html_reports in 0.4 and switching to cargo criterion", should probably have an issue opened for it.

Notes

criterion 0.4.0 was released on Sep 10, 2022 (changelog), so it should be safe to move to. There is a getting started section in the book, which should help with the move. For information about the cargo subcommand cargo-criterion see this section in the book, or the repository.

It should be noted that the information in the contributor guide and the README for benches will need to be updated to reflect these changes.

[ehuss]

This has me a little concerned: cargo-criterion does not currently support baselines

I'm not sure why that means exactly, but establishing baselines is fundamental to comparing changes. Someone will need to investigate what the process is for generating an HTML report after saving a baseline, and whether or not that still requires the html_reports feature.