Building a Cheaper Board

The official BOMs (available on each Release page) contain top-notch components that will allow you to build your computer with the best quality possible.

Although, these literally come at a cost, so here are a few tips on how to build a cheaper board:

1. AliExpress is your friend: get all the "stupid" components there: resistors, diodes, ceramic caps, sockets, the power switch, DIN and DB-9 connectors, the fuse holder, pin headers and jumper caps. Take advantage of that Choice offer they have, buy stuff in batches and get free shipping (at least to the EU).
2. Also get the GALs from AliExpress: they will be second hand but most of them will work, so get 5 or 10 just in case. This is actually even better since they should not be too fast, but on the primary market you cannot find -15 (or slower) anymore (In any case, yes, -7 will work).
3. What you DON'T want to get from AliExpress is electrolytic caps and all the other ICs. The latter is because you need to use LS or HCT logic for the build, and 99% of what you get from there is relabeled HC components. These have different voltage thresholds and will not work correctly. Get the chips from Mouser, Digikey or another reputable supplier. I also recommend getting the ferrites, EMI filters, BJTs, voltage regulator and quartz from them.
4. In case you didn't notice, the footprint for C107 accepts both axial and radial caps, so there's no reason to hunt down the former, which is just more expensive.
5. Don't bother locating a 48-pin socket for the TED, just use two 24-pin side by side. Place both before soldering.
6. Consider replacing the resistor networks with normal resistors: you will have plenty of spare resistors (since you will buy them in batches of 100) and it only takes a little extra effort. Just make sure to follow the correct layout: for bussed networks you must place a resistor into every pin hole starting from 2, then you solder all of the other ends together and solder this common end into pin hole 1. For isolated networks, just place a resistor into every couple of adjacent holes.
7. Similarly, you can build your own diode bridge with 4 diodes (1n4001 are fine, same you would use for D87/88 on V4) rather than getting the dedicated component.
8. All the round ferrite beads (L1, L2, L3, L80, etc.) have little practical usefulness, feel free to use a resistor leg in their place.
9. This is more of a general recommendation: do NOT use machined/round-pin sockets. I really don't understand why this has become popular... Round-pin sockets are clearly meant for round pins and all of your ICs have flat pins. Using round-pin sockets will make it way more difficult to insert the ICs and, more importantly, it will reduce the contact area between the pin and the socket, so it's a silly thing to do. If you think round-pin sockets are higher-quality, you're just wrong. There are high-quality flat-pin sockets just as well. I'm not too convinced it's worth spending too much money into them, but feel free to, if you prefer.
10. It makes sense to use round-pin sockets for the CPU and TED if you plan to use a CPU replacement and/or an FPGATED, as those will most likely have round pins.
11. Speaking of the CPU: don't bother hunting down an original 8501, there's no longer any reason to do it: Daniel Mantione's 6502-based replacement works perfectly and is pretty cheap, even more so if you buy the kit and build it yourself.
12. FPGATED is not necessarily cheaper than a real TED. It works very well and it will be the way forward, but feel free to get whatever is cheaper until you can find real TEDs.

The above constitutes my opinion and it's the way I build my boards. You might agree or not, I don't care. In any case, please don't bother me about these things.